Thanks to another forum member on the Delphi 1300 site, I bought a gently used Roadhouse slip-on. It sounds great, but there is a bit of a harshness that comes about these mufflers after a few thousand miles of use. Read on to find out why your stock muffler never needed repacked, yet aftermarkets will.
There are two means to quiet the exhaust systems found on most street bikes today: restrictive and absorption mufflers.
The stock muffler falls under the restrictive category. It uses a steel baffle design, which causes disruption of the sound waves by redirecting them through a series of plates, or baffles. These baffles are permanent, and unless corrosion is an issue, never really need replaced. They restrict the amount of air flowing out and disrupt the air flow pattern.
In contrast, most aftermarket pipes, which are notably louder in volume, are absorption-type systems. They do not have plates to redirect sound at all, so these are called "cores". They use consumable products like fiberglass or stainless "steel wool" to soak up the waves, sometimes in conjunction with a perforated core. Over time, the packing burns and disintegrates and the bike sounds progressively louder. To return to the original sound, the core must be repacked with some heat-tolerant material.
There are no true "baffles" on the Roadhouse Slip-Ons. If you hold the muffler to the light, you will notice the catalytic converter is gone, and you will be able to see straight through it. The standard core has perforations and indentations downward into the path of the outward airflow. The quiet core also has indentations, but these protrude even further into the hollow center of the muffler, causing additional airflow disruption. Not quite as much as a baffle, but enough to prevent the straight-through tunneling effect of a solid core (think in comparison to straight pipes, Cherry Bombs, etc).
So, how do we quiet the Roadhouse Slip-On? Two ways - either repack the standard core with more sound absorbing (yet flame-proof) material, or install the quiet core.
To remove the Slip-On's core, you will need to remove the slash tip and the retaining bolt. The tip is removed with two bolts, one on the underside and the other on the tire-side. The core's retaining bolt is just beside the tip underneath. Now for the fun part of removing the core itself. I found that a paint can opener (the type with a teardrop handle at one end and a little lip at the other) works well. Hook the lip onto the first perforation you can grab, and give a gentle yank. This may have been a little more difficult because of the prior use, but a pair of pliers wrapped in a towel should work on newer mufflers.
Once I removed the core, I noticed that about 1/3 of the original packing was pretty well scorched and disintegrated. I unwrapped the fiberglass portion to reveal a small segment of stainless "steel wool" which was also scorched, but usable.
My local Ace Hardware had stove door rope (for wood burning and pellet stoves) which is high temperature, and pretty dense. These come in 7' lengths, so I bought two packages. I tied the ends of the rope to the first and last rows of perforations, and wrapped the rope taut over the steel wool. Reinstall and ride. This should be closer to the standard core.
I also placed the original fiberglass mat back over the rope.
Roadhouse Slip-On
Kaaaapowwwww!
Very heavy sound to it, not tinny, no barking, no crackling. Just a deep heavy thump. It took a while of "sweet persuasion" to get it to fit properly. The OEM lead pipe heat shield was a little out of line for the muffler, but that could be due to "Butterfly" being lowered. Maybe. Doesn't matter because just about all slip-ons require some tweaking. I guess if it just goes on in 15 minutes or less you are considered fortunate.
Read my Repacking for more info.....
Very heavy sound to it, not tinny, no barking, no crackling. Just a deep heavy thump. It took a while of "sweet persuasion" to get it to fit properly. The OEM lead pipe heat shield was a little out of line for the muffler, but that could be due to "Butterfly" being lowered. Maybe. Doesn't matter because just about all slip-ons require some tweaking. I guess if it just goes on in 15 minutes or less you are considered fortunate.
Read my Repacking for more info.....
J&M CB Radio
As an amature radio enthusiast, I felt at home with the installation of the J&M CB radio.
I cannot emphasize enough the importance of the following:
Honestly, I do not care for the J&M brand antenna - it does not cut the mustard in terms of build quality and grounding abilities.
Antenna...
I would use a more sturdy Firestik or Wilson brand fiberglass antenna. With the saddlebags installed, the 3' antenna works fine. However, I do not recommend going with a shorty 2' stick because the radiation pattern will be blocked if you follow my mounting suggestion. Regardless of the style, opt for the adjustable tunable tip model (those with a screw top). Cut-to-tune antennae are more difficult because they are easy to over-shorten (cut down too far) and once this happens the antenna is about as good as garbage.
Feedline...
I know it is somewhat pricey per foot, but you can get away with a weaker ground plane that motorcycles provide by using higher quality, ultra low loss coaxial cable. I opted for Times Microwave LMR400 Ultra Flex. This is an outdoor cable that can take a pounding. The center conductor of Ultra Flex is stranded (not solid), so it can make the tight bends required for bike install without the concern of breaking the core. Any ham or electronics retailer should be able to locate this for you. Also check Ebay for premade cables.
Grounding your setup...
Motorcycles pose a significant challenge for providing sufficient amount of grounding material because they are small, lightweight and often use plastics. The V-Star Customs are particularly difficult because of the plastic rear fender. Ideally, the following should be observed:
I cannot emphasize enough the importance of the following:
- QUALITY antenna
- QUALITY feedline
- SUFFICIENT ground
Honestly, I do not care for the J&M brand antenna - it does not cut the mustard in terms of build quality and grounding abilities.
Antenna...
I would use a more sturdy Firestik or Wilson brand fiberglass antenna. With the saddlebags installed, the 3' antenna works fine. However, I do not recommend going with a shorty 2' stick because the radiation pattern will be blocked if you follow my mounting suggestion. Regardless of the style, opt for the adjustable tunable tip model (those with a screw top). Cut-to-tune antennae are more difficult because they are easy to over-shorten (cut down too far) and once this happens the antenna is about as good as garbage.
Feedline...
I know it is somewhat pricey per foot, but you can get away with a weaker ground plane that motorcycles provide by using higher quality, ultra low loss coaxial cable. I opted for Times Microwave LMR400 Ultra Flex. This is an outdoor cable that can take a pounding. The center conductor of Ultra Flex is stranded (not solid), so it can make the tight bends required for bike install without the concern of breaking the core. Any ham or electronics retailer should be able to locate this for you. Also check Ebay for premade cables.
Grounding your setup...
Motorcycles pose a significant challenge for providing sufficient amount of grounding material because they are small, lightweight and often use plastics. The V-Star Customs are particularly difficult because of the plastic rear fender. Ideally, the following should be observed:
- Use 12ga wire as a minimum if a separate ground wire is used. This is the case of the J&M brand, and they skimp on the ground wire - I recommend a braided copper strap.
- Use as much coax feedline as you can during the install.
- You MUST have at least 9 contiguous square feet of metallic grounding material. The frame and fenders of most bikes can provide this if there are no insulating bushings to prevent the contiguous surface. If 9sq/ft are not directly available, install approx 17' of feedline (RG-8X is fine), and do not coil it.
- Try to minimize anything that blocks the radiating pattern of the antenna (luggage, flags, etc). The antenna is most efficient when it has a direct path to the recipient.
Mounting your antenna on a V-Star 950/1300 Tourers...
The 950 and 1300 Tourers provide an excellent antenna mounting point on their saddlebag mounts. A simple piece of angle iron can be cut and used as a bracket for attaching the antenna to the mount.
Your local truck stop carries a multitude of CB install and test equipment. A few things you will want to pick up there are:
- a SWR meter (to measure efficiency so that you don't burn up your new transmitter - YES, it CAN easily happen if a solid ground is not achieved)
- the antenna
- a stud mount to connect the antenna to the angle iron bracket.
Installing the radio...
One tip is to loosen the tank to feed the coax cable and J&M connections through easier. Make connections per J&M's instructions. You may also want to use dielectric grease between the male and female connections. It is a non-conductive sealant to ward off moisture and corrosion at the connection points. The 1300 has a really handy neck cover where the bulk of the connections can be hidden. The front is an Allen head bolt and the rear is a screw-type pop rivet. Once both fasteners are removed, the neck cover comes off like a clam shell.
Finishing up the job....
This is where the SWR meter comes in handy. Connect the meter between the antenna and radio. Tune the radio to channel 10, on low power. Key the mike and watch where the needle spikes. Ideally, the SWR should be as close to 1 as possible. Anything up to 2.5 is acceptable, but the closer to 1, the better your buddies will hear your transmission. Move down to channel 1 (the motorcyclist's channel) and again key the mike. Observe where the needle spikes.
- If the SWR on channel 1 is higher than channel 10, then the system is short (physically and electrically). You will need to tune your antenna up by lengthening your tip.
- If the SWR of channel 1 is lower than channel 10, then the system is long. You will need to tune your antenna down. This is where an adjustable tip antenna is preferred.
If you have tuned your antenna to the longest setting and are still experiencing high SWR, then there is insufficient ground. If you have observed all the standard rules of grounding, then you need to get creative with creating a ground. You can add spring coils (again, found at truck stops), a heavier mounting stud, a longer (4') antenna, adding a metal plate behind the fender, etc.
Each time you test SWR, be sure you will be in a similar condition as when you will transmit. For example, test in an open area away from walls or other conductors, install luggage or have a passenger sit on the seat, and always replace the protective dust cap - even THAT will change your SWR.
Here's a good source for CB info and troubleshooting: http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs.htm
Enjoy the ride!
73! ... oh, wait, wrong band. Uh, "Over and out good buddy!"
Rear Fender Rack
Another Star Genuine accessory that changes the look of the 1300. To install, you need to remove the passenger seat and mounting hardware.
- Remove the Driver's seat using the ignition key.
- Remove two hex head bolts facing forward under the passenger seat.
- Slide passenger seat forward to pull off.
- Remove the two hex bolts that attach the seat retainer to the fender.
- Store or sell your passenger seat. If you store it, use the original seat holes to save the mounting hardware.
- Use provided spacers for fender rack.
- Use blue Locktite and carefully tighten.
- Enjoy!
Lock your Lid!
Here's another innovative idea from the guys at Kewl Metal: Kewlocks. Most bikes have their helmet holder in a rather inconvenient spot. The Kewlocks place them in an easy-to-reach spot - right at the end of your handlebars!
Not only do these sweet looking chunks of chrome look good and lock your lid, but they also function as bar end weights.
These attach to the ends of Kuryakyn grips (Iso, Flame, Transformers) and are sold either singly or as a pair ($70 est).

Not only do these sweet looking chunks of chrome look good and lock your lid, but they also function as bar end weights.
These attach to the ends of Kuryakyn grips (Iso, Flame, Transformers) and are sold either singly or as a pair ($70 est).
More Lights - Rear Visibility!
I love this piece! Super easy install - took less time than installing fender tips! The Kuryakyn Triple Whammy lights up the backside as a run-turn-brake controller. The turn signals gain another use as rear red running lights, and illuminate steady or modulated when the brake is applied.
Click below for video.......
Click below for video.......
DIY Driver's Backrest
Took a piece of mild steel flat stock and banged the bloody heck out of it over an I beam. The backrest bracket is sandwiched between the fender and the driver seat rear anchor.
Need to trim the corners off and grind it down, and I think I'm going to coat it with that Plasti-Dip from Harbor Freight. Otherwise, I think it is perfect!



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Need to trim the corners off and grind it down, and I think I'm going to coat it with that Plasti-Dip from Harbor Freight. Otherwise, I think it is perfect!
Tint your windshield!
Well, did hubby's windshield today. A cool $14 mod that really made him smile.
Bought a roll of adhesive window tint from the local Pep Boys. This is 35% VLT (visible light transmitted). My "Butterfly" is a lot darker, but hubby looks through his shield so it needed to be lighter. If in doubt, check with local law. Meh.
To do this you should have the following tools ready:
- Very sharp (brand new) Exacto blade
- Scotch tape
- Scissors
- Sticker On! (or liquid Dawn & water solution in a spray bottle)
- Lint-free rag
- Squeegee (or a credit card wrapped in the lint-free rag)



Here's the coolness of my tinted shield
Bought a roll of adhesive window tint from the local Pep Boys. This is 35% VLT (visible light transmitted). My "Butterfly" is a lot darker, but hubby looks through his shield so it needed to be lighter. If in doubt, check with local law. Meh.
To do this you should have the following tools ready:
- Very sharp (brand new) Exacto blade
- Scotch tape
- Scissors
- Sticker On! (or liquid Dawn & water solution in a spray bottle)
- Lint-free rag
- Squeegee (or a credit card wrapped in the lint-free rag)
- I cleaned the windshield with Plexus (my favorite windshield cleaner) and a lint-free rag.
- Lay out the windshield on a clean, dust-free floor and unroll the window tint to estimate the size. As you unroll the tint, spritz a little Sticker On! or Dawn/water solution on the plastic to eliminate static cling.
- Cut the tint at least one full inch more than the size of the windshield itself to allow some "wiggle room" for error.
- Liberally apply the water solution or Sticker On! to the shield itself. You want enough water solution to be able to "float" the tint and be able to reposition it easily. Don't worry, you'll squeegee out the excess, so spritz away!
- Peel back the protective backing to the tint, exposing the adhesive side. Go ahead and spray the adhesive as well - it will become tacky again, trust me!
- Set the tint in place and begin to squeegee out all bubbles and excess water. This will take some time. Work the bubbles to the nearest edge. You may not get it all today, but that's ok. Just heat the tinted side of the windshield with a hair dryer and begin working them out later.
- Once you have most of the bubbles and water out, then take your very, very sharp Exacto knife to the edges. I prefer this way, but you can cut to exact shape and size before you remove the protective backing. Hold the knife at a shallow and low angle and glide over the edge of your shield. With a little practice, you should have a very well trimmed out tint.
Here's the coolness of my tinted shield
Flame Floorboard Covers (Kuryakyn)
Here's another cool idea to jazz up the drab floorboards of the V-Star lineup! Kuryakyn makes Iso and Flame floorboard covers which are just dripping in heavy chrome!
The floaty feeling the stock boards have is now gone.
They do not seem slippery at all. I was concerned, but the rubber is very elevated, which you can't tell in any of their product pics.
I like the added space - I can move my little boot all around it now in many different positions, and there is even a lip on the back end that my feet fit nicely. However, it is that spot that concerns me for durability. I can't ride as hard in turns or I'll likely end up replacing them in a year.
Don't forget, Butterfly is slammed 3", so most normal and commercially lowered 1300's might not suffer this problem. I am going to take the "curb feelers" to Fastenal or Tractor Supply to look for a half-dozen replacements to keep on hand.
Very, very minimal vibration. If it becomes bothersome, I might add some silicone to the bottom, but that's unlikely necessary.
I did find the point of scrape - and it isn't as bad as I thought. We took a ride through some beautiful twisties between SW Pa, WVa and SE Ohio, and put it to the test. Had a few good gashes on a 180* decreasing radius and another hairpin, but it was the DR that had me grinding my anti-tip peg again!!!
For the install.......
The floaty feeling the stock boards have is now gone.
They do not seem slippery at all. I was concerned, but the rubber is very elevated, which you can't tell in any of their product pics.
I like the added space - I can move my little boot all around it now in many different positions, and there is even a lip on the back end that my feet fit nicely. However, it is that spot that concerns me for durability. I can't ride as hard in turns or I'll likely end up replacing them in a year.
Very, very minimal vibration. If it becomes bothersome, I might add some silicone to the bottom, but that's unlikely necessary.
I did find the point of scrape - and it isn't as bad as I thought. We took a ride through some beautiful twisties between SW Pa, WVa and SE Ohio, and put it to the test. Had a few good gashes on a 180* decreasing radius and another hairpin, but it was the DR that had me grinding my anti-tip peg again!!!
For the install.......
Here's what you need:
Flat screwdriver
8mm deep socket
4mm hex
Kuryakyn supplies a pair of curb feelers (installed with 8mm) and six 4mm button cap bolts and washers (install three on each side).

Use the screwdriver to pry off the OEM floorboard rubber, pushing inward and up. There are three spots the rubber anchors into the floorboards. Set the rubber pieces in the "1300 spare parts bin".

The three holes are where the Kuryakyn bolts go.

Don't forget the curb feelers, although I'm not sure they won't last long.
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Flat screwdriver
8mm deep socket
4mm hex
Kuryakyn supplies a pair of curb feelers (installed with 8mm) and six 4mm button cap bolts and washers (install three on each side).
Use the screwdriver to pry off the OEM floorboard rubber, pushing inward and up. There are three spots the rubber anchors into the floorboards. Set the rubber pieces in the "1300 spare parts bin".
The three holes are where the Kuryakyn bolts go.
Don't forget the curb feelers, although I'm not sure they won't last long.
Windshield Tilt
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